Perhaps a potassium ferricyanide bath? The process is not terribly difficult but I would wait until you are very comfortable developing negatives by the usual process. For color negatives, a panchromatic film is better. My outfit contains no first developer, only a redevelper and a bleach; at it makes 16 ounces of the stuff, not 32 like the T-Max direct positive kit. I used to do alot of this and the resulting slides where full of detail with beautiful tones and very fine grain! Can anyone post some sample images?
Did you like the results? I can figure out that my film has to be normally processed first and I believe not to be fixed yet and kept in the light proof tank awaiting the 2nd bath! Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: So, it was used for Panatomic-X? I’ll have to find the closest modern equivalent, then. I recently bought very cheap!
It’s messy, but it works well on film. Anhydrous sodium sulfite 50g Water to make ml Intermediate intense wash during 5min Second exposure: Rotate reel to insure complete coverage of film by light.
Black & White Slides
Positive from a negative By copying a negative on a negative film, you’ll obtain a positive. Share This Page Tweet. I recently bought very cheap! To expose, you can use two methods: The time for first development should be thought of as a starting point. Intermediate wash 2 water changes Fix as a normal film Wash as a normal film Dry as a normal film Example with Kodak Products A first example using a chemical inversion can be found in publication Kodak J-1 20MB!
My own envelopes are more recent – no earlier than the ‘s I guess. Fix 5 minutes in regular hardening fixer. This is what makes it confusing to use! Your name or email address: Among the specific films intended for this use, the Kodak Fine Grain Release Positive Filma blue sensitive film firect can be manipulated under usual amber inactinic light, developped in D normal contrast or Dektol higher contrast. For purists, a true reproduction equipment with a special lens otimized for 1: This film is unfortunately no more produced, when I’ll be out of stock, I’ll probably switch to the Macophot Ort 25 or Kodak Technical Pana panchromatic film to be manipulated in complete darkness, direcf developed in D or Dektol:.
Here are some other combos that developiing be used: Potassium dichromate 5g Caution! My outfit contains no first developer, only a redevelper and a bleach; at it makes 16 ounces of the stuff, not 32 like the T-Max direct positive kit. Perhaps a potassium ferricyanide bath?
Add developlng solution only right before developing, such developer has a limited life. Hi there, I’m new to developing my own film. In order to obtain Sepia toned slides, instead of the Dektol, the second developer may be composed of 2 grams per liter of sodium sulfide not sulfite.
Any experience with the Kodak Professional T-MAX 100 Direct Positive Film Developing Outfit?
Your name or email address: For color negatives, a panchromatic film is better. Rinse 2 minutes in water Re-exposure to light Expose film to white devloping of a photoflood or halogen bulb in a reflector at 1.
I used to do alot of this and the resulting slides where full of detail with beautiful tones and very fine grain!
Second developer Dektol 1: Can anyone post some sample images? And some bleach, as well – there is none with the kit.
Sulfuric acid can cause severe burns, add it slowly Intermediate wash 2 water changes Clearing time until complete clearing: Back to home page Back to photography main page Back to techniques page.
The results are superb!
There is no mention of T-Max stuff anywhere. To koak the low contrast of the original negative, gamma around 0. It’s also possible to use a procedure similar to the inversion of films as described lower adapted to papers low contrast developers. So, it was used for Panatomic-X?
By copying a negative on a negative film, you’ll obtain a positive. As I recall, you need to rate your film 50 ASA.
This is unfortunately not the product I refer to.